A Foodie Family’s Perfect Itinerary in Lyon, France with Kids
Planning a trip to Lyon, France with kids? You’re in for a treat—literally. Known as the gastronomic capital of France, Lyon offers more than just incredible food. With its walkable neighborhoods, scenic parks, historic sites, and vibrant markets, Lyon is a fantastic destination for families. Whether you’re sampling local specialties at a traditional bouchon, exploring medieval streets in Vieux Lyon, or letting the kids run free at Parc de la Tête d’Or, this charming city strikes the perfect balance between culinary adventure and family-friendly fun.
Day 1: Welcome to Lyon – Food, Parks & the Ainay Neighborhood
We arrived in Lyon and took the metro from the airport to our hotel, Hotel De Verdun 1882, located in the charming Ainay neighborhood in the 2nd arrondissement. The hotel had beautiful, spacious rooms perfect for families—ours even had bunk beds for the kids. The staff was incredibly friendly, and the location made walking or taking the metro easy.
After settling into our room we began our trek to our dinner at Bouchon Tupin. To entice our kids we set off to explore a few playgrounds along the way, starting at Place Carnot, a lovely park just a short distance from the hotel. The kids enjoyed the shaded playground and a merry go-round. We continued on our way to Place Bellecour, one of the largest squares in Europe. The route was lively with shops and buzzing street cafes that kept us entertained as we strolled. Upon arriving at the plaza our children quickly scoped out the playground and were off to explore.
That evening, we had our first classic Lyonnaise dinner at Bouchon Tupin, where we dove into comforting regional dishes like pate in pastry, Quenelle au brochet (pike fish dumpling), Œufs parfaits en meurette (slow-cooked eggs in red wine sauce), and praline pie. It was an incredible welcome to Lyon’s culinary scene.
Day 2: Culinary Greatness at Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
We started our day with croissants and coffee from Au Vieux Pétrin. After fueling up then hopped on the light rail to Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, one of the city’s most iconic gourmet food markets. This bustling indoor market is a must-visit for food lovers, and surprisingly fun for kids too thanks to the colorful displays and lively atmosphere.
We wandered through the various food stands, picking up a few takeaway items—mainly pastries—for later. For lunch, we sat down at Chez Léon Huîtres et Coquillages, where we enjoyed a plate of fresh oysters, sea urchin, and boullabaise, paired with a crisp glass of champagne. Before leaving the market, we made one last stop at Baba La Grenouille to try frog legs, a Lyon specialty.
Basilica Views and Old Town Discoveries
After our market adventure, we headed out to the Old Town (Vieux Lyon). We decided to start with the funicular from Vieux Lyon up to the Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière, which offers sweeping views of the city below. The Basilica is a stunning church with beautiful mosaics and outside the panoramic viewpoints made it a memorable stop.
From there, we took the funicular back down the hill into Vieux Lyon, delighted at our decision to explore this part of the city early in the day as the lines were significant as we returned. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring its narrow cobblestone streets and discovering traboules (hidden passageways) and historic spots like the Tour Rose. No trip to Lyon, France with kids is complete without a little ice cream, and the scoops and deconstructed affogato at Terre Adélice can’t be missed. We were fortunate to be able to get table service so the kids could rest their legs and enjoy a refreshing treat.
Grand Street Art, Craft Beer & Seasonally Inspired Dining
Later in the afternoon, we wandered further north across the Saône River to see the Fresque des Lyonnais, a giant mural celebrating Lyon’s most famous residents. While this part of the 1st arrondissement had a cool urban vibe, we didn’t find many activities for kids. We made a quick stop at Hopstore for a local craft beer before heading back to the Old Town.
Typically we avoid touristy areas such as the Old Town for dining (usually overpriced meals with a lack of excitement and execution), but we absolutely loved this modern French restaurant offering creative small plates, Armada, in Vieux Lyon. It was a welcome change of pace and a chance to try a range of seasonal, inventive dishes in a relaxed, family-friendly setting. A great way to end the day before heading back to the hotel.
Day 3: Markets, Zoo Animals & Green Spaces
A weekend farmers market had popped up in the Place Carnot, filled with local produce, cheese, meats, and quick bites for lunch. But on our final day, we had one more classic Lyon lunch to experience at Café Comptoir Abel. The meal was excellent as we enjoyed Lyonnaise salad, foie gras and bread, beef filet and sweetbreads in morel mushroom sauce paired with a wonderful Beaujolais red wine. Truly decadent. Afterward, we took the metro north to the Parc de la Tête d’Or, one of the best urban parks in Europe and a true highlight for our kids.
It was a warm, sunny spring afternoon and the park was alive with families and picnickers. We strolled through the beautifully landscaped botanical gardens, visited the free zoo (which featured giraffes, monkeys, and tapirs), and relaxed by the lake. The kids loved the open spaces to run and play, and we grabbed a final refreshment at Buvette de l’Observatoire before slowly making our way back to the hotel, and to the airport.
Where to Eat in Lyon, France with Kids
Lyon is one of the world’s top food cities, and we fully embraced its culinary culture. From early morning pastries to sensational French classics, here are the family-friendly spots we loved:
Breakfast and Markets
- Au Vieux Pétrin – Traditional French bakery with buttery croissants, fresh baguettes, pain au chocolat (chocolate-filled pastry), and great coffee.
- Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse – Iconic indoor food market perfect for lunchtime grazing:
- Baba La Grenouille – Frog legs, a Lyon specialty. The frog legs are cooked in a healthy portion of garlic and parsley and have a unique combination of flavors and texture (imagine chicken crossed with fish).
- Chez Léon Huîtres et Coquillages – Fresh oysters, sea urchin, bouillabaisse and champagne.
- Assorted charcuterie and cheese stands offering everything from saucisson sec to pâté. We took with us a chicken pot pie.
Classic Lyonnaise Cuisine
- Café Comptoir Abel – A cozy, historic restaurant serving:
- Filet de bœuf with morel mushroom sauce
- Sweetbreads in creamy mushroom sauce
- Lyonnaise salad with poached egg, bacon, and frisée lettuce
- Mac and cheese for the kids
- Bouchon Tupin – Modern yet authentic bouchon with:
- Pâté croûte (pâté in pastry)
- Œufs parfaits en meurette (slow-cooked eggs in red wine sauce)
- Quenelle au brochet (pike dumpling)
- Slow-cooked beef, pasta, and tarte à la praline (almond praline pie)
Unexpected Finds
- Armada – Creative small plates and modern French flavors in a relaxed setting. This was the most challenging spot for finding something to eat for the kids, but the adults loved the food!
- Terre Adélice – An ice cream institution in Old Town with 100+ flavors. We were lucky to get a table at this very busy spot.
Final Thoughts: Why Lyon Is Great for Families
Lyon might not be the first city that comes to mind for a family vacation in France, but it should be. Between the unbeatable food scene, walkable neighborhoods, rich history, and kid-friendly parks, it offers a well-balanced experience for travelers of all ages. More manageable than Paris, this was an incredible family trip.
If you’re looking for a destination that lets you indulge in local cuisine while keeping the kids happy, visiting Lyon, France with kids is one of the best hidden gems in Europe for families.
Explore more and check out these nearby destinations while visiting Lyon, France:
- A Short Stop, a Big Impression: This Beautiful City Nestled in the French Alps Can’t Be Missed
- Spring Skiing in the French Alps: A Family Guide to Les 3 Vallées with Kids
