Setúbal, Portugal: A Coastal City Full of Surprises
Just a short drive south of Lisbon, the coastal city of Setúbal, Portugal offers a refreshing blend of natural beauty, vibrant culinary culture, and authentic Portuguese atmosphere. Often overshadowed by the more tourist-heavy Algarve or Cascais, Setúbal remains a bit of a hidden gem—a working port town with access to world-class seafood, sweeping views of the Arrábida mountains, and some of the best dolphin-watching in Europe.
Our family escape to Setúbal combined a touch of adventure with relaxed summer living. Whether sipping cocktails in the charming town center, spotting dolphins in the wild, or cooling off by the pool during the hottest days of summer, every moment delivered something memorable.
Arriving in Setúbal, Portugal: Vibrant Culinary Culture in the Heart of Town
We arrive in the late afternoon and immediately headed for Gatsby Cocktail Bar, a chic, laid-back spot near the town center serving up inventive cocktails. The warm hospitality of the owners and expertly crafted drinks made it an ideal first stop. Gatsby’s balances creativity with restraint—their menu features seasonal ingredients, inventive infusions, and beautifully presented cocktails without pretension. It’s the kind of place where you could just as easily settle in for one drink or make an evening of it. With kids in tow we visited in the early afternoon and were prepared with our own set of coloring books and crafts to keep the kids occupied.
After cocktails, we made our way to Sem Horas, a small but lively tapas restaurant near Gatsby in a small plaza. We ordered a mix of dishes—fresh oysters, fried cuttlefish, braised oxtail, and steak. Each plate was well-balanced and delicious, drawing from local flavors while adding a modern flair. Despite the heat we sat outside under the shade of the umbrellas and enjoyed the atmosphere sitting on the plaza.
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Dolphin Encounters in the Waters of Setúbal
The next morning brought one of the most unique experiences Setúbal has to offer: a dolphin-watching tour with Dolphin Bay Setúbal. The city sits along the Sado Estuary, a protected natural reserve and home to a resident pod of bottlenose dolphins—one of the only such groups in Europe that remain in the same waters year-round.
We boarded a sleek, hybrid-powered vessel—quiet and eco-conscious, minimizing disturbance to the wildlife. As we cruised past the sandy peninsula of Tróia and the dramatic cliffs of the Arrábida coastline, the anticipation built. After an hour of cruising we spotted the telltale arcs and splashes: dolphins!
Playful and curious, they swam right alongside the boat, leaping in and out of the water in groups. We saw both adults and juveniles, often in tight pods, and even witnessed a few moments of synchronized movement. It was magical to be so close to these intelligent, social creatures in their natural habitat.
The crew was knowledgeable and passionate about marine conservation, sharing insights about the pod’s behavior, ecology, and ongoing protection efforts. This wasn’t just a tourist excursion—it felt like a responsible, educational, and moving experience that left a lasting impression on all of us.
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Pool Time and International Comfort Food in Setúbal, Portugal
After the boat tour, we refueled with a casual lunch at Oltre Hamburgueria Setúbal, a burger bar with a stylish interior and a well-curated menu. Their juicy beef burgers were seasoned to perfection, and the crispy chicken wings were a hit with the kids. It’s a great place for a quick, satisfying meal without sacrificing quality.
With midday temperatures soaring past 40°C, we were more than ready for a break from the sun. We returned to our base at the Novotel Setúbal, a family-friendly hotel with spacious rooms and a well-maintained outdoor pool. Surrounded by trees and set just outside the city center, it offered the perfect blend of convenience and calm. The pool became our sanctuary that afternoon—a place to cool off, relax under umbrellas, and let the kids splash away the heat.
Dinner that evening took us back into the center of town to Bocca Al Lupo Pasta Bar, an Italian restaurant tucked into a cozy side street. The space was warm and inviting, with friendly staff and a strong focus on fresh pasta. We tried a caprese salad, silky tagliatelle carbonara, pillowy truffle ravioli, and a tomato penne pasta. The carbonara was so good that we had to order a second portion. The wine list features a variety of Portuguese wines that compliment the Italian offerings, and every bite was comforting, balanced, and beautifully plated.
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Final Morning in Setúbal: Coffee Culture and a Bustling Local Market
On our final day, we eased into the morning with another dip in the Novotel pool, savoring the last moments of relaxation before heading home. For our caffeine fix, we stopped by Irukandji Espresso Bar, a minimalist, surf-inspired coffee shop that serves up specialty brews with style. Their iced americano was spot-on, and it’s clear the owners take their coffee seriously—think precise pours, latte art, and a rotating selection of beans.
No visit to Setúbal would be complete without a stroll through the Mercado do Livramento, one of Portugal’s most iconic indoor markets. Open since 1930 and housed in a tiled, historic building, this vibrant space is alive with color, scent, and sound. Rows of gleaming fresh fish, seasonal produce, cured meats, cheeses, flowers, spices, and handmade crafts fill the space. The azulejo tile murals along the walls tell the story of Setúbal’s maritime history, adding another layer of beauty to the experience.
Even if you’re not buying, the market is a joy to explore—watching vendors joke with regulars, tasting a sample of queijo de Azeitão, or just observing the pulse of daily life in this fishing town.
Why Setúbal Deserves a Spot on Your Travel List
Setúbal doesn’t shout for attention—but that’s part of its appeal. It’s a city that reveals itself slowly, through its genuine hospitality, its natural wonders, and its love of good food and good living. Whether you’re looking to connect with nature or exploring authentic Portuguese culture, Setúbal offers all of this in an approachable, affordable, and unforgettable package.
From cocktails and tapas to dolphins and market strolls, our long weekend in Setúbal delivered everything we didn’t know we needed—and then some.
Trip Planning Tips for Setúbal, Portugal
- Getting There: Setúbal is about an hour by car from Lisbon. You can also take a train from Lisbon’s Roma-Areeiro or Entrecampos stations.
- Where to Stay: We stayed at Novotel Setúbal, which is family-friendly with a great pool—perfect during summer.
- Don’t Miss:
- Dolphin Bay Setúbal boat tour
- Dinner at Sem Horas and Bocca Al Lupo
- Coffee at Irukandji Espresso Bar
- Mercado do Livramento
