Wild & Wonderful: A Family Adventure in the Western Algarve
When most people think of the Algarve in Portugal, they picture golden beaches framed by towering cliffs, warm waters, and rows of sun loungers lining boardwalks in resort towns. But drive west and you’ll discover another side of Portugal’s beloved southern coast: rugged, wind-swept, untamed. That’s exactly where our family landed for a weeklong escape in the western Algarve.
Staying just outside the historic town of Aljezur, in the laid-back neighborhood of Vale da Telha, we found there was something special: a place where surf culture meets small-town charm, where nature feels just a little more wild, and where families can unplug, slow down, and soak in one of Europe’s most stunning coastlines.
Where to Stay: An Airbnb in Vale da Telha
Our Airbnb in Vale da Telha felt like a private hideaway at the edge of the world. Tucked between coastal cliffs and forested inland hills, this neighborhood is known for its proximity to some of Portugal’s best surfing beaches. The vibe is relaxed and unpretentious—expect to see wetsuits drying on clotheslines, surfboards stacked against porches, and more pine trees than people.
Unlike the more polished southern Algarve towns, Vale da Telha feels raw in the best way. The roads are quiet and unpaved in places, the wildlife is abundant, and the sunsets are some of the most vivid we’ve ever seen. It’s a place where the Atlantic takes center stage—powerful, moody, and endlessly beautiful.
Coastal Treasures: The Beaches of the Western Algarve
Every beach we visited felt like a new adventure—no two were the same. Each had its own unique personality, shaped by the elements and seasons.
- Praia da Arrifana became our beach of choice. Nestled in a crescent-shaped cove and surrounded by towering cliffs, it had plenty of soft sand and consistent surf. Surfers of all ages braved the rolling waves, and even just watching them became part of the magic. The hike down to the beach (and back up again!) made it feel more secluded, like a reward for the effort.
- Praia de Monte Clérigo stole our kids’ hearts with its wide, walkable sands and magical tide pools. The girls spent hours exploring the shallow waters at low tide—finding tiny crabs, shells, and darting fish.
- One of our most memorable evenings was spent overlooking Praia da Amoreira from the terrace at O’Capitão, a casual but stylish restaurant perched above the estuary. The beach itself, where the Aljezur River meets the sea, is a painter’s dream: sand dunes stretch endlessly, the water carves elegant curves, and the light shifts constantly.
- We made a short detour to Praia da Bordeira, a wild and wide expanse framed by towering dunes and strong Atlantic surf. Though we didn’t stay long, it was arguably the most jaw-dropping of all, a perfect place for hiking along the coast.
- Our only southern detour was to Praia do Martinhal in Sagres, where we met up with friends. The beach there is calmer and more protected, ideal for younger kids to splash and play without worry. It’s also near Sagres’ fortress—a historic site worth visiting for older children or history buffs.
Adventure on the Atlantic: Boat Tour from Lagos
For a change of pace, we headed east to Lagos, a lively town with cobbled streets, lively markets, and a bustling marina. From there, we joined BlueFleet for a thrilling zodiac boat tour along the coast. Even on a windy day with some choppy waves, the tour was an unforgettable experience. Skimming across the Atlantic, we explored hidden sea caves, natural arches, and iconic formations like the Benagil Cave, where a circular opening in the rock lets sunlight stream into a glowing cavern.
The guides were excellent, knowledgeable, friendly, and always checking in on our comfort. It was a perfect blend of thrill and natural wonder.
A Splashy Finish: Zoomarine
On our last full day, we treated the girls to Zoomarine, a family-friendly mix of aquarium, water park, and marine animal shows. Zoomarine was impressively well-run and surprisingly fun for all ages. There were slides, water rides, multiple shallow pools, dolphin demonstrations, and indoor exhibits on marine life. It was a great way to cool off and let the kids run wild before heading home.
Foodie Finds: From Grilled Seafood to Artisanal Pizza
One of the joys of staying in a rental home was the ability to grill out—and grill we did! We sourced fresh seafood and produce from Paraíso do Marisco on the drive down from Sintra, and the Aljezur mercado, often deciding dinner based on the day’s catch or whatever fruit looked ripest.
But we also ate out often and discovered a range of restaurants, from quick cafés to cozy bistros throughout the Western Algarve:
- Pom Pom Bagels in Lagos offered comfort food with a twist—great for a quick bite after exploring.
- Empanadas and Co., also in Lagos, was a hit for a casual lunch, with flaky pastries packed with global flavors.
- In Arrifana, The Bakery was a sweet little stop for pastries and coffee before beach time.
- We loved Arte Bianca so much we visited both their Arrifana and Sagres locations. The wood-fired pizzas and handmade pastas were absolutely stellar—Italian-level good.
- MADA Steakhouse in Aljezur was a cozy, upscale choice for a night out, with a warm ambiance and well-prepared meats.
- O Paulo in Arrifana delivered on the views and traditional seafood dishes,
- Varzea Horta & Bistro offered a more creative spin on regional fare, served in a relaxed garden setting.
- O’Capitão overlooking Praia da Amoreira served up delicious paella along with excellent beach views.
Discover these wonderful Portuguese recipes inspired by the Algarve region of Portugal
- Perfect Grilled Lobster Recipe: Spiny European Lobster on the BBQ
- Grilled Sole (Linguado): A Fast Fish Dinner for Summer Nights
- Make use of incredible Portuguese Potatoes in a perfect Creamy Potato Salad
Coffee Breaks & Sweet Treats
No day starts without good coffee, and we found a few favorites:
- Koyo Café served the best cups in the region—so good we brought beans home with us.
- Toxic Magic had fun branding and strong coffee, perfect for a quick caffeine fix.
- Moagem Café in Aljezur had a stunning riverside setting, even if the drinks were more about the view than the brew.
- A Padaria had incredible bread and pastries that we couldn’t get enough of.
For dessert, Gelícia Gelateria Italiana in Lagos was a standout for gelato: rich, creamy, and the perfect post-splash time treat.
A Town with Soul: Discovering Aljezur
Aljezur itself is a town of contrasts. On one hand, it’s deeply rooted in history—its origins date back to the Moors, and the ruins of a 10th-century castle still watch over the valley. The old town is filled with narrow cobbled streets, whitewashed houses, and quiet corners perfect for wandering.
On the other hand, modern Aljezur is quietly becoming one of the Algarve’s most interesting cultural hubs. Over the last decade, it has drawn in surfers, artists, and young entrepreneurs who’ve opened hip cafés, yoga studios, eco-shops, and design-forward boutiques. It’s a place where traditional Portuguese charm blends effortlessly with modern, global influences. Whether browsing handmade ceramics or chatting with expats at the farmers’ market, the town feels both local and worldly.
We also stopped at Aljezur Surf Spot, a friendly local shop where we picked up shirts for souvenirs that now remind us daily of our adventure.
Final Thoughts on the Western Algarve
Our week in the western Algarve gave us so much more than a beach holiday. It offered us moments of wonder, wild beauty, and deep family connection. It’s a region that invites exploration, rewards curiosity, and never feels overcrowded. The dramatic coastline, the slow pace, the creative food scene, and the sense of discovery made it one of our favorite trips to date.
If you’re looking for a family-friendly destination that combines nature, adventure, and culture—without the crowds—the western Algarve might be just what you’re looking for.
