Zermatt, Switzerland: Winter Family Adventures Under the Matterhorn

Skiing Adventures

Zermatt is renowned for its world-class skiing, and we were eager to hit the slopes. The Zermatt Matterhorn ski area did not disappoint; the breathtaking beauty of the region left us in constant awe. We joked that we were “sight-skiing” rather than sightseeing as we carved our way through this stunning alpine paradise.

To ease into our adventure, we enrolled our daughters in ski lessons to familiarize them with the mountain. Our oldest, Zoey (8), joined a morning group lesson with Connect, while our youngest, Sydney (4), had an afternoon lesson with Summit. Both girls thoroughly enjoyed their lessons, and we knew an amazing week of skiing awaited us. Sydney continued with full-day group lessons through Zermatters for the next three days, which she absolutely loved.

Zermatt’s red runs offer a wide variety of experiences and terrains. Some sections are steeper than black runs or quite narrow, while others are perfect for cruising with wide, sweeping turns. One of our most memorable aspects of skiing in Zermatt was navigating our way to lunch. Fluhalp and Adler Hitta were two of our favorite stops—missing the turn could mean missing your reservation! For the adventurous skier, crossing into Italy to explore the Cervino ski area was a highlight. The experience was awe-inspiring, and enjoying a meal at Ristorante Rifugio on the border before heading back into Switzerland was unforgettable.

For beginners, the Riffelberg area is ideal. It’s easily accessed via the Gornergrat train stop or the Furi Riffelberg gondola and offers multiple wide blue runs that are great for learning. The Sunnegga area is another good choice for beginners, though its blue runs are narrower. For more advanced skiers, the Rothorn and Blauherd areas provided challenging terrain, including our final run down to Zermatt on the 2/2a run. At the end of the descent, an elevator conveniently brings you down to the Sunnegga funicular entrance, just a short walk from the town center.

Ski/Snowboard Rentals and Storage

We rented our ski equipment at Bayard Bahnhof, conveniently located near the train station. The shop offers a wide selection of gear and even provides lockers to store your skis/snowboards and boots, making it easy to explore the town or head straight to the slopes without hassle. This convenience was a game-changer for our family, allowing us to focus on the fun. Hotels and apartments often feature storage if this is more convenient for your stay.

Ice Skating in Town

Zermatt’s charming town center features a multiple ice skating rinks that became an instant hit with our kids. We rented skates from Julen Sport and spent the afternoon gliding on the ice under the shadow of the Matterhorn. It was an idyllic experience that perfectly balanced activity and fun.

Playgrounds and Exploration

Following ice skating, the playground in the heart of Zermatt provided a much-needed break from structured activities. With plenty of space to climb, slide, and play, it was an excellent spot for the kids while we soaked in the alpine ambiance. Pavillon located adjacent to the park offered adult refreshments and snacks for the children.

Family Sledding

Sledding from the Furi gondola stop was an unforgettable experience. After renting a sled from Doraz Sport, we eagerly took the gondola up to enjoy the snowy trails. Following a fresh snowfall the previous night, the activity turned into a nature walk workout as we pulled our kids on their sleds through the pristine landscape. For more sledding options, Zermatt offers scattered hills around town. However, for a truly unique adventure, the Rotenboden toboggan ride is a standout. Riders glide down a groomed run off the Gornergrat train, enjoying incredible alpine views. While it’s pricier than alternatives, with costs totaling 186 Francs for 2 adults, 2 children (under 9), and 2 sleds, the experience is one-of-a-kind. It may be the most extravagant sledding we’ve encountered, but sometimes, you’ve got to embrace a once-in-a-lifetime moment.

Dining Delights

Zermatt’s culinary scene catered to all our cravings. Here’s a closer look at the restaurants we loved:

On The Slopes

• Sunnegga Lodge: Located on the slopes, this lodge offers hearty alpine dishes and panoramic views of the Matterhorn, making it a perfect spot for a mid-ski meal. A pricey ski lodge food experience, but solid. Located next to the Sunnegga funicular.
• Fluhalp: A high-altitude restaurant with a cozy atmosphere and delectable Swiss specialties. Their outdoor terrace is a must on sunny days. The truffle fondue was supreme. Located on the red 19.
• Adler Hitta: Known for its rustic charm and local cuisine, this spot serves up incredible roasted chicken and other hearty meals with breathtaking scenery. Beef goulash with tagliatelle, yes please! Located on the blue 6.
• Ristorante Rifugio: Situated on the border of Italy and Switzerland, this charming spot provides authentic Italian cuisine with stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Ravioli, polenta, and vin brule (aka gluhwein or mulled wine) were great choices. Located near the top of the Bontadini lift, red 6. Don’t miss it! Hungry for more? check out our Homemade Ricotta Raviolis.

In Town

• Restaurant Schäferstube: A classic Swiss eatery in the heart of Zermatt, featuring lamb dishes and other traditional favorites in a warm, chalet-style setting. The lamb burger and lamb chops with au gratin potatoes were truly fantastic. Check out this decadent Lamb Loin recipe!
• Walliserstube: Another great option for Swiss cuisine, offering fondue and a family-friendly atmosphere. We loved the braised pork served with risotto and braised lamb served with tagliatelle in a mushroom cream broth.
• Ristorante Molino: Perfect for Italian cravings, this restaurant serves delicious pizzas, pastas, and a variety of classic dishes in a welcoming environment. The lasagna was perfect.
• Brown Cow Pub: A casual, family-friendly pub in the center of town, serving burgers, sandwiches, and comfort food ideal for a relaxed evening. Nachos and beer to warm up the soul.
• Fuchs Bäckerei: A delightful bakery with multiple locations in the heart of Zermatt, offering fresh pastries (Quarkinis!), breads, sandwiches, and pretzles! . It’s a perfect stop for a quick breakfast, an afternoon snack, or a sandwich for the slopes.

On the Slopes: Iglu Bar and Champagne Bar

The Iglu Bar was a great stop for both us and our daughter where we enjoyed Irish Coffees and Hot Chocolate while staring at Matterhorn framed by bluebird skies. Champagne Bar was a luxurious treat to end our skiing adventures for the adults. Perched above town the views were incredible and these slope-side stops felt like a scene from a postcard.

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New Year’s Magic

Our visit coincided with New Year’s, and Zermatt’s celebrations were nothing short of spectacular. Fireworks lit up the alpine sky, and we toasted with champagne alongside friends we’d met on a previous trip to Portugal. It was a moment our family will treasure forever.

Exploring the Town

Walking through Zermatt felt like stepping into a storybook. Lively village streets, charming chalets, and twinkling lights created an atmosphere of pure enchantment. The town’s quaint shops and cafes offered plenty to explore and enjoy during leisurely strolls.

Getting There

We started our journey by flying into Geneva Airport. We had planned to catch a train 1 hour and 45 minutes after our flight landed. The flight was delayed an hour (Geneva can be quite foggy in winter). When we arrive the airport was quite busy given it was the week of New Years and getting our luggage took longer than we expected, pushing us close to missing our train. Luckily, we received our luggage and after a short jog to the train station at the airport we made it with a few minutes to spare. From there, we boarded the first leg of our train ride to Zermatt, the IR90 (~2 hours 30 minutes). We loved the vineyards that lined lake Geneva and as the train journeyed further into Switzerland passed by snow-capped mountains, charming Swiss villages, and pristine landscapes. Once arriving in Visp we changed trains, to the RE42, to finish the journey (~1 hour 15 minutes). The anticipation of seeing the Matterhorn for the first time made the trip even more magical.

Wear to stay

Zermatt offers a diverse range of accommodations tailored to various budgets and needs. Staying near the train station places you close to the heart of the action, with easy access to shops, restaurants, and the Gornergrat ski train. For families prioritizing skiing, the Sunnegga funicular area east of the river or the Furi gondola area to the south are excellent options, although the latter is farther from the village’s bustling commercial center. Apartments are particularly popular among families for their spacious layouts and kitchen facilities, offering the convenience of preparing meals at home. Hotels, while often more expensive, come with added perks like in-house dining and spa facilities for a touch of luxury. We opted for a centrally located apartment south of the main shopping streets, just a 10-minute walk from the ski train, funicular, and gondola, while also being steps away from fantastic dining options. No matter where you choose to stay, Zermatt’s charm and accessibility ensure a cozy and memorable alpine retreat.

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